The Gauchito Gil Legend

We finally figured out the ubiquitous bright red roadside shrines everywhere in this part of Argentina. They are shrines to "Gauchito Gil" a legendary man to many in Argentina. (see Wikipedia explanation below )
Typical Gauchito Gil shrine




Close-up of Gil himself:




Full shrine



The Legend of Gauchito Gil
Popular accounts vary, but in broad terms the legend tells that Antonio Gil was a farmworker and that a wealthy widow fell in love, or had an affair, with him. When her brothers and the head of the police (who was also in love with the widow) found out about their relationship, accused him of robbery and tried to kill him. He enlisted in the army to escape from them. In the army, he fought against the Paraguayan army. Finally, he could come back to his village as a hero.
But, when he arrived at his village, he was forced to return to the army to fight in the Argentine Civil War. It was a brother versus brother war and "Gauchito" Gil was tired of fighting. Therefore, he decided to desert. During this time he became an outlaw and acquired a reputation as a Robin Hood figure, for his efforts to protect and help the needy.
In the end the policemen caught him in the forest. They tortured him and hung him from his feet on an algarrobo tree. When a policeman was going to kill him, "Gauchito" Gil said to him: "Your son is very ill. If you pray and beg me to save your child, I promise you that he will live. If not, he will die". Then the policeman killed "Gauchito" Gil by cutting his throat. That was January 8, 1878.[2]
When the policemen came back to his village, the one who had killed "Gauchito" Gil learnt that his child was in fact very ill. Very frightened, the policeman prayed to "Gauchito" Gil for his son. And afterwards, his son got better. Legend has it that "Gauchito" Gil had healed his murderer's son.
Very grateful, the policeman gave Gil's body a proper burial, and built a tiny shrine for "Gauchito". Moreover, he tried to let everybody know about the miracle.
"Gauchito" Gil is thought to be a folk saint for many people of the provinces of Formosa, Corrientes, Chaco, the north of Santa Fe and even the province of Buenos Aires. One can spot smaller shrines of Gauchito Gil on roadsides throughout Argentina. Great pilgrimages are organised to the sanctuary (located about 8 km from the city of Mercedes) to ask to the saint for favours.
Moreover, each January 8 (date of Gil's death), there is a celebration honoring "Gauchito" Gil. There, the people dance, sing and drink, and also play folklorical sports as tanning horses, bulls and others animals.
The Catholic Church hasn't declared "Gauchito" Gil a saint, but many Argentine people are promoting him.

New Friends in El Bolson

This is Horacio and Kitty, the owners of the wonderful B&B that we had the pleasure of staying for 5 days in El Bolson last week. They treated us like royalty PLUS we became friends. Horacio is from Argentina but tells the story of driving his VW van all the way from Buenos Aires to Berkeley some 40 years ago where the van broke down. He has been a resident artist of Berkeley ever since and now both Kitty and Horacio split their time between the 2 places. Kitty is originally from Berkeley and teaches Qi Gong as well as taking care of lots of the B&B details. Great folks!!!



One of Horacio's delicious breakfasts. Fresh fruit tart, fresh squeezed OJ, local fruit and yogurt. Every morning it got better and better. Raspberries, apples, pears and blackberries were all falling off the trees and bushes everywhere we went in El Bolson.

Location:Balloffet,San Rafael,Argentina

Last night in Patagonia Region

We spent the last 3 nights in San Martin de los Andes in a really comfy apartment tucked out of town a bit. We decided to cook out on the parilla, which is Argentine for grill. Almost everyone has one as well as all the restaurants grill on them. Below, you can see our dinner and look who showed up as we sat down....a Tony Dog clone. Of course we invited him in.

Street Art-Argentina

A Night of Tango

Last night was our second night in a row at this great restaurant in the small town of San Martin de Los Andes on Lake Lanin. We had a very tasty filet minon smothered in red wine and local mushrooms. Slurp. Then we were treated to a couple dancing the tango right in front of our table. Fabuloso!!!

Yes, that's a ham on the bar behind the tango dancers.


She changed her outfit 2x.









Our cute bartender pouring all of us a glass of champagne. I love that custom. Note the ham close-up. You better like jamon and beef if you come to Argentina. So much for becoming vegan. Ha ha




What a night!!!

Location:San Martin de Los Andes, Patagonia

Fly Fishing in Parque Lanin

Gordon has been itching to do some fly fishing so off we trekked this morning for a river walk and some fishing. Fun day. Alaskan- like wilderness.


On the way to the river.... More of these great roadside shrines





Walking along the river.











Fish On !!!

Location:San Martin de Los Andes, Patagonia

Rio Azul Revisted

There was magic on the Rio Azul this day.... Gordon and I walked a long section of the river and were greeted with perfect temperatures, sunshine, millions of blackberries and to finish the walk in style... 2 fellows playing tango music on their accordion and guitar as they sat on a large rock along the waters edge. Sweet.

Accordion player along the river. Music w a tango beat.


Swooning young woman.











Lunch on the river bank.... Spinach and onion pie.


Another river traverse on yet another rickety foot bridge.


Mini wild fushia flowers


Translation please!!! My Spanish is fairly dismal. Can anyone help me with this? I found it scratched onto a rock along the river.

Location:Bolson, Argentina

San Martin de los Andes

Still Life with Luscious Stolen Fruit and the Jamon from Hell

We've left lovely El Bolson and driven up a beautiful road called La Ruta de Siete Lagos. Now we're in the wsmall town of San Martin de los Andes alongside a beautiful lake. More later.

El Bolson

Sights from around this unique Patagonia community of El Bolson. Lovin it!
The little greenhouse is made from empty water bottles. Wow.

Lago Puelo

We took a trip into Chile (barely) on this lake, Lago Puelo. Fun day. There was a naturalist on board but she spoke only in Argentine Spanish which is quite different then the Spanish i learned in Mexico. Sigh. But we understood enough to learn alot about the unique flora of the area.

El Bolson, Patagonia

We discovered our tribe in El Bolson ! What an incredible place. The further down the famed Ruta 40 we drive the more outrageous the landscape and towns become. The beautiful Rio Azul sparkles as it encircles this great town full of craftspeople and Beer Makers. We followed small signs to an artisanal cerveceria, down a bumpy road and across a very rickety foot bridge. There was no beer but we discovered the Rio Azul with locals sitting on it's banks and apple trees heavy w fruit. What an awesome day.




















How far would we trek for a local artisanal beer? Turns out, pretty darn far.
We started the day out by hiking straight up the side of the mountain where our B&B is located. At the top of this very steep climb was a forest of sculpted trees and even higher up was a "Refugio" where locals sell their home brew and homemade empanadas and pizzas. Don't ask me how they get all the ingredients up there. The views were spectacular and the beer to die for.











I guess this horse is the one who brings everything up to the Refugio

Location:El Bolson

Villa de Angostura-

This very cool town of Villa de Angostura was ground zero for the eruption of Volcan Puyehue about 9 months ago. Thick piles of ash cover the ground and rafts of floating small pumice rock float in their beautiful lakes. We hiked into a park here today that is a preserve for a rare tree called the Arrenella. At the end of the trail we caught a small ferry that brought us back to where we started. Then when we passed through the town as we left late in the day we caught a parade. Great day.

Rough translation on this float in the parade- the volcano can't take away our happiness.












Parade Diva





Pumice ash that forms in rafts along the lake's shoreline. Can you see the layer of floating pumice between the sand and water. Super weird.



Gordon examining the pumice floating in the lake with our ferry in the background.






Ash covers everything in the forest.





This is a dog that was our trail angel during our hike. Notice the ash on his fur.


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Location:Patagonia